Just north of Phoenix Arizona–mile-high Jerome clings to Cleopatra Hill in the Verde Valley, a town built almost impossibly into the edge of the mountain.
Jerome boasted a population of 15,000 during the copper mine boom of the early 20th century. But when the last mine shuttered in 1953, residents scattered, and the town was all but abandoned. That is, until artists arrived in the 1960s, opening shops, galleries and restaurants, and restoring life to this cliffside enclave. Today, Jerome welcomes the weird, the wonderful, the artsy – plus curious visitors eager to explore the town’s bohemian charms.
How far is Jerome, you might ask. Whether you’re coming from Scottsdale or Phoenix, Jerome is an easy 2.5-hour drive, making it a delightful day trip.
The Foodie Scene
Built in 1899 and situated on Main Street, The Clinkscale enjoys double duty as a beautifully restored hotel and one of the best places in town to eat. If you’re embarking on a morning day trip from Scottsdale, come here for brunch. Croque madame, brioche French toast, lemon ricotta pancakes – all are thoughtfully crafted with an exquisite attention to detail.
At Haunted Pizano, big windows bestow big views while an open kitchen sizzles with action: stone-fired pizzas sliding into the oven, pastas boiling, sauces bubbling. The menu leans Old World Italian – chicken parm, pappardelle Bolognese – with innovative twists as seen in the hot-honey pizza and the blackberry bourbon sour cocktail. And with only 12 tables, the dining experience is nothing short of intimate.
Great Live Music
Some call it a dive bar. Others an old-school saloon. Some say it’s the most legendary watering hole in all of Arizona. Nobody, however, disagrees on one point – the Spirit Room is the go-to spot for live music in Jerome. The bar-saloon-venue anchors The Connor Hotel and plays host to a diverse lineup of musicians day and night. Stroll Main Street at any given hour and you’re likely to hear the thump of drums and thrum of guitars emanating from the door.
Art Galleries Galore
Jerome is considered one of Scottsdale’s best day trips thanks to an arts scene that’s a lovely complement to Old Town Scottsdale’s bounty of galleries. See it on display at the Jerome Artists Cooperative Gallery, a sunny space featuring the works of local artists.
There’s also Raku, which has been showcasing unique pieces for 30 years, with nearly 50 artists represented. View impressive ceramic works, colorful glass art and kachinas handmade from natural gourds.
Another gallery not to miss is Pura Vida. Browse art from more than 120 artists working in glass, fiber and ceramics, plus check out the selection of home décor and garden art.
Wine Tasting
The Verde Valley is one of the state’s three American Viticultural Areas (AVA), and sampling the region’s award-winning wines at Jerome’s tasting rooms is an afternoon pleasantly spent.
Start at Caduceus, which grows grapes in nearby Cornville and Cottonwood, and in the southern Arizona AVA of Willcox, to shop for exclusive bottles and try a guided tasting flight. A standout is the Vermentino, a zippy, citrusy white.
The wines at Jerome Winery are made from grapes grown in Southern Arizona and showcase the state’s unique terroir in varietals such as Petit Verdot and Syrah. Sip and sample at their laid-back tasting room, where the friendly staff is happy to answer questions.
Spooky Spots
Like any good ghost town revived back to life, Jerome has its share of haunted places. Most famously, the Jerome Grand Hotel. From 1926 to 1950, it served as the United Verde Hospital, caring for miners and their families. It’s believed that some 9,000 people died there, and their spirits now roam the halls. Book an overnight stay – if you dare.
Less scary is the Haunted Hamburger, a jovial spot for burgers (15 options!), sandwiches and salads. The eatery gets its name because of odd occurrences over the years, like cans flying off shelves and photographers capturing the spectral image of a woman. Come for the pastrami burger, stay for the ghosts.
